Unclothed saints with matted locks of hair, bodies smeared in ashes, holding holy tridents in their hands, entered the bathing grounds with gusto. They played like children, splashed water on each other, shouted slogans of ‘Har Har Gange’, ‘Jai Bholenath’ (glory to River Ganga and Lord Shiva) and showcased their combative skills on the banks of the river at Haridwar on the occasion of the first Shahi Snan (Royal bath).
Even though I was unable to observe them closely, the spectacle nonetheless pinioned me totally. It was so compelling and thrilling! These saints are said to live a life of service and complete devotion disconnecting them from the whole world. During the dipping ceremony, first came the Juna Akhara,next came the Agni Akhara, followed by the Mahanirvan, Niranjani and the innumerable other sects of ascetics dressed in saffron coloured garments. Their cavalcade designed with precious ornaments made me speculate as to why these saints need such display of wealth, when so many poor people visiting Kumbh are penniless.
Millions came on overcrowded trains, buses, cars and carts to witness the event. Be it the wealthy or poor, old or young, healthy or handicapped, the entire public came with such tremendous faith that it somehow enthralled me as to how can people have such unwavering trust into something. The pilgrims came from all walks of life, travelling long distances and tolerating many physical discomforts, such as sleeping in open air in near freezing temperatures, but nothing demolished their faith.
What amazed me was how people travelled thousands of kilometres just to take a holy dip in the Ganges, stating the fact that because their ancestors have done it, therefore they are bound to follow the traditions too. Well, it’s good to respect your culture and ethnicity but superstitions and fallacies can not be balanced in the same equation.
A young mother sprinkled a few drops of the rivers’ water over the head of her newborn. An elderly couple eased themselves into the cold water braving the strong winds. Day or night was of no consequence to anybody. No fear of the crowds, confusion or chilly weather prevented the devout from gathering at the greatest spiritual festival ever. The view clearly depicted as to why Kumbh has become the massive act of faith and has gained popularity among all classes of pilgrims in India.
While planning my visit, I had certain doubts, but with Lord’s grace my journey was an absolute bliss as my office colleagues went out of their way and cooperated whole heartedly.
The sight after reaching Haridwar left me totally mesmerised. Sacred chants and holy sermons greeted me on the wide set of steps descending Har-ki-pauri. The sight of the flowing current and the devotion of people from several castes and religions, assembled at the many bathing areas, captivated me totally.
I kept asking myself, how faith can be so powerful and enticing yet so confusing. The pious believe that simply by bathing in the Ganges, one is freed from their past sins (Karma), thus becoming eligible for liberation from the cycle of birth and death. But can a river free someone from their sins and evil deeds?
Well, finally I was also touched by their spirit as I also enjoyed the chilly waters and took a dip.
An Italian journalist, Valeria, who was watching me, asked the reason of my surrender to the customs if I didn’t believe in them? To be honest, for whole one minute I was speechless. I was there for an adventure, but somehow after taking the dip I also felt to be a part of the crowd not because I was sharing the same mythological belief, but because something new invigorated in me i.e.- the faith to be a human and fight some if not all the evils existing in our society.
Religion should be an effective way of reaching out to its followers and must not be biased. Though I have never been spiritual, I have always been open-minded towards all other religions. God is within me, in my inner voice and my conscience. It should not matter who we are or where we are born. We are humans above all and must respect each other for what we are.
During my short trip, I met Gujaratis, Marathis, Sikhs and even Muslims. India is such a diverse society. Children of all religions were bathing alongside. A `Kanwad`, who came all the way from Maharashtra told that he is a human first, then an Indian and finally a Maharashtrian. We all fight in the name of religion, caste and traditions, but we all are same, made of same flesh and looking forward to some kind of faith, which restores our belief in humanity.
My piece cannot be complete without mentioning some lines of my friend.
"Dono ghaton ke beech…raat k teesre peher mein…baitha hun..sochta hun…kya hai akhir marg nirvana ka?...Pehle ghat par jeevan k utsav mein…doosre ghat par mrityu k neerav mein…ya phir in dono k beech kahin jahan main baitha hun?"
(Sitting between the two bathing areas in the middle of night, I am unable to find the right path to salvation… On the first side, I am trying to find the gaieties of the world, on the other I am trying to search for peace in death. Don’t know, may be I am just somewhere in between.)
This is the truth. Every human being is in a Karmic cycle. One who has taken birth has to die someday. Hence we must have faith in ourselves and must try to reap the maximum benefits of life. As:
One life for something
One life for everything
One life for freedom
One life for faith
One life to know myself
One life to complete myself
One life to achieve thyself
And just One life to define the cycle……………….
It is not just impossible to encapsulate the magnitude of the festival through an article; it is even more difficult to vividly bring out the grandeur and magnificence of the throbbing life force there. It is something that one needs to experience personally. At least, as far as I am concerned, the Kumbh has captured my soul.
(The views expressed by the author in the blog are his/her own)