Paris, Mar 11: Substance battled style at the Paris ready-to-wear shows on Sunday with designers split between those who set trends and those who follow. Paco Rabanne showed he remains leader of the pack after 40 years in the business, while John Galliano and Alber Elbaz at Lanvin each put their powerful stamp on next winter's fashions.

Julien Macdonald at Givenchy and Phoebe Philo at Chloe were left limping behind with pleasing but predictable collections.
With so many designers dipping into the space age 1960s for inspiration, it seems logical to revisit the outfits of Rabanne, who defined the era with Mary Quant and Andre Courreges.
The Spanish designer has handed over day-to-day design duties to Rosemary Rodriguez, but his spirit ran through her collection of futuristic chainmail and plastic ensembles.
Snug reefer jackets with raised collars were paired with thigh high black leather boots. Leather belts criss-crossed the body across a black ribbed sweater with detachable sleeves.
Best of all were the outfits made of small silver circles woven together to produce a medieval-looking chainmail.
Though Rabanne is a key influence this season, it was disconcerting to see almost identical outfits fill the catwalk at Givenchy.
They included the same military-style coats with raised collars, ribbed black knits and long leather boots, while gold chainmail was used to break up the line of a herringbone shift.
Macdonald has struggled to make his mark at the house which famously dressed Audrey Hepburn, so this was a step in the right direction. Silver collar tips and padlock belt buckles accentuated the Welsh designer's razor-sharp tailoring.
Bureau Report