June 29: In the most spectacular presentation of Milan men's fashion week so far, Austrian-born designer Carol Christian Poell showed his new collection by having a group of models float down the Naviglio Grande in Milan. With boogie-boards attached to their backs, the fully-dressed models were put in the water at the bridge under Viale Cassale during the last hour of daylight on Wednesday evening. Although a bit dire in presentation, impeccable tailoring in white and orange were the signature looks that came to the surface.
Poell showed 17 looks on models with highlights coming from his signature white trench coats with closure flaps that strapped across the chest, and tight-fitting dress pants. All the looks in white looked ultra-crisp and neat, even when floating on water. Focusing on industrial materials like rubber, which showed up in application on collars and the waist, Poell's strength as a tailor was visible when offered a group of men's jackets which tightly hugged the shoulder for a much fitted silhouette. When it came to knits, Poell chose to show large orange socks and several sweaters that were a stand out in this unusual presentation.
Poell also brought back a leather treatment that was innovated by Benetton in the 1980's called garment -dying. In this process, shoes are sewn and dyed at the same time. This allows Poell to offer buyers a neutral color style which can be ordered in any color they choose – in Poell's case, he chose orange. Models were fished out of the water and toweled up after floating for about half a mile and the clothes were dumped in plastic bags. When asked what will happen with them, Poell, a tall man with menacing silver capped front tooth, nonchalantly replied, "They will dry." Poell said he feels strongly that most of fashion is marching in the same direction, covering all the same trends, and he felt it was very important to show that individuality is the key to a serious fashion house. "I want to make my trends personal. This collection and this presentation are my take on the state of fashion now," he asserted. Poell proved again that there is an avant-garde in fashion and his master tailoring is sold in the best stores in the world, like Maxfield in Los Angeles and L'Eclairuer in Paris. And rumor has it that he is on top of the list to rejuvenate the men's design of some major Milan fashion houses who are in dire need of direction.
Bureau Report