May 30: Fifteen years ago, motorcycle enthusiast Richard Stark went into his Malibu garage and cut a perfect pair of leather pants. Soft and sturdy, and detailed with Gothic silver hardware, they were the pants he had always wanted, but couldn't find, and his biker friends felt the same. "One sedated evening, my favorite design was conceived," says Stark, who professes to wearing similar leather pants every day. "And I called it Chrome Hearts."
Today, Chrome Hearts has become the ultimate lifestyle label for more than just Stark and his biker buds. High-end, rock-lovin' types like Angelina Jolie, Cher, and the Osbournes are devoted clientele -- as is Karl Lagerfeld, who sauntered down the runway after his recent Lagerfeld Gallery show in Paris sporting a hefty platinum Chrome Hearts ring around his skinny black Christian Dior tie.
The landmark stores, such as the black iron-gated Melrose Avenue locale in L.A. and the flagship Upper East Side townhouse in New York, are less retail spaces as they are impressive showcases of what Chrome Hearts is capable of: The custom-made ebony cabinetry is fitted with sterling silver CH hinges, and the brick-and-black leather spaces are filled with everything from CH power tools to carved-cross soap to luggage, sunglasses, handbags, baby wear, bottled water, candles, customized sleeping bags, re-worked Rolexes, and CH-embroidered Paper, Denim and Cloth jeans, as well as an extensive selection of gold, platinum, sterling silver and bejeweled jewels and, of course, their classic leather clothes.
"We're like the Hermes of the R&R world!" claims Stark, who resides in L.A. and designs the line along with his wife Laurie Lynn. True to his words, Hermes' brown leather saddle is, in Chrome Hearts terms, a black leather guitar pedal (emblazoned with the word "F**K"), an "H" belt buckle is an $11,000 American flag placket and the Collier de Chien cuff is a $200 black sweatband bracelet with a silver Gothic cross -- the CH logo -- on it.

Given the line's scope and quality, in 1995 Chrome Hearts received the prestigious Accessory Designer of the Year award from the CFDA . "Richard was like 'the CFD-what'?" divulges the company's rep in a whisper. Now a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America ("and also the NRA," as he points out) Stark -- though he's reluctant to admit it -- has one foot in the industry and one firmly entrenched in his idyllic L.A. lifestyle: "I am mainly involved with my family and my art. As far as the fashion world, I'm involved once a week when I do my laundry...one white load, one black load."
More Stark's speed, was Chrome Hearts inclusion in the "Rock Style" exhibit at the Met's Costume Institute in 1999, as well as being featured several years ago in "The Nature of Diamonds" exhibit at Tokyo's National Science Museum. And last year, the ultimate rock 'n' roll collaboration was initiated when The Rolling Stones asked Stark to design an exclusive line of clothes and accessories for their 40 Licks tour.

Looking to broaden its empire, the company -- which has already set up shop in New York, L.A, and Osaka, is planning San Francisco and Hong Kong debuts soon -- and if they're anything like the Osaka opening two years ago, there'll be a line of people around the block eager to enter the Chrome Hearts world.
Bureau Report