Report: D N Singh
Programme Special Correspondent Telecast: Saturday (Aug 23) at 9:30 pm; Thursday (Aug 28) at 4:30 pm Among the most enchanting of the ancient heritage that India boasts of, Orissa’s celebrated temples hold a place of pride that few others can compete with. From the splendour of Jaina caves and Buddhist stupas, to the magnificence of Hindu temples, Orissa proves to be a historian’s delight. Dating all the way back to the third century BC, each of the monuments tells fascinating tales of a time and era long gone by.

Yet, all is not as it should be in the enchanted land. Scratch beneath the surface and the ugly realities of today’s world make themselves visible, threatening the very existence of the timeless magic surrounding these historic structures. The tragedy is all the more pronounced by the fact that it isn’t the ravages of nature and time that are to blame, as much as human greed and disregard. It is indeed a great irony, that those who should treasure the glory and grandeur that the structures symbolise, are the very ones contributing to their destruction.
At the heart of this land of past glories, stands the Golden Triangle, spanning Bhubaneswar, Puri and Konark, forming the epicentre of Orissa’s great temple heritage.
The earliest known origins of the heritage have their roots in the advent of Jainism and Buddhism in the third century BC. It was well after hundreds of years of the first of these monuments that the Hindu temples began to make their appearance. The spread of Buddhism is mainly credited with being the decisive period that started the great trend. It was then that the flourishing culture and riches of the land caught the eye of Emperor Ashoka.
Lured by the fame that the wealthy region enjoyed at the time, Ashoka set out on a conquest. An epic battle was fought that was recorded in posterity for being among the bloodiest in history, later referred to as the Kalinga War. The scene of battle was staged on the banks of the river Daya and the scale of bloodshed that ensued was said to have turned the river water blood red.
This was the turning point that brought about the great transformation in the life of the Emperor, and consequently to the history of the land itself. So overcome with remorse was Ashoka said to have become by the sight of the bloodshed, that he sought refuge in the compassion of Buddhism and dedicated the rest of his life to spreading the religion.



From that point of time, the influence of Buddhism was gradually spread over the country, spilling over the borders to encompass South East Asia and Sri Lanka where it continues to thrive to this day.
Ratnagiri and Lalitgiri in Jajpur district in addition to Udaygiri bear testimony to the glorious days when Buddhism flourished. Buddhist Viharas and Monasteries dating back to the 2nd century BC have withstood the passage of time to echo beliefs long forgotten.



It was well after almost 450 years following this age that a frenzy of Hindu temples began to sprout. Absence of records dating to the period has shrouded their origins in mystery. The 5th century AD has been acknowledged as the intial stage of the rise of Hindu architecture, confirming to that of the Gupta temple architecture in India. Credit for starting the trend has been given to the Sailobhava Kings who reigned from 575 to 736 AD. The Bhaumas-Karas, the Somavansis and the imperial Gangas were the successive dynasties to continue this trend. However it was mainly the Somavansis and the Gangas who contributed the most significant share of the temple architecture in the land that account for the sizeable chunk of the heritage in existence today.

Although historical hotspots in the state, the likes of Puri, Bhubaneswar, Bolangir, Sonepur, Jajpur and Cuttack boast of a plethora of architectural creations of varying periods, the lesser known parts of the state are not devoid of a fair amount of their own. However these are the ones relegated to oblivion and in gradual process of disintegration.



A quest for the forgotten sites of Orissa reveal far flung destinations of Bolangir districts Ranipur and Jharial. They form the settings for architectural structures or what remains of them, dating back to the 9th & 10th century AD. A temple of the 64 Yoginis stands atop a cluster of about fifty remaining temples and even though evidently depleted from its original grandeur, the creations still possess the power to spellbind the beholder. Among the better known locations, the temple city of Bhubaneshwar is quite easily in a class by itself. Though Old Bhubaneshwar, also known as Ekamara Khsetra is believed to stretch back to 2000 years, the structures that remain today have their origins as late as the 5th to 6th century AD. Nevertheless, the awe-inspiring Lingaraj temple, resplendent in the skyline, measuring 178 feet, the 10th century AD Mukteswar temple with its classic stone arch that has earned the mantle of the gem of Orissan architecture, the 7th century Parsurameswar temple and the 11th century Rajarani temple are no less captivating in craftmanship.



The Ancient Monuments & Archaeological Sites Remains Act, 1958, stipulates the strict prohibition of any structure within 100 meters of the designated monuments. In reality the Act remains confined to the pages as rampant violations, be it in the form of shops or houses within the designated zone, commercial activities on the premises or simply gradual dismantling of the historic structures, are visible in every direction. A recent survey by the INTACH revealed some startling facts. Orissa was revealed to be home to 2700 standing monuments in various parts, which have not been granted protection. Considering that the survey was restricted only to certain areas in the state, the total number of unprotected structures could easily add up to 4000.



A mere 76 monuments in Orissa enjoy protection of the ASI while another 222 are accounted for, by the State Archaeology Department (SAD). Ironic then that the future of Orissa’s archaeological treasures are largely summed up in the initials of the organisation designated for their survival, i.e. SAD.