Sept 29: Calvin Klein's Spring 2004 runway show was quintessentially Calvin—neutral colors, sleek shapes, tasteful geometric patterns—except for one thing: it was the first show without the man himself at the helm. Designer Francisco Costa has taken over day-to-day duties overseeing the Calvin Klein women's collection and with this, his coming out party, he seemed determined not to alienate the line's core customers, who rely on the label for its distinct brand of urban sophistication. While Costa didn't reinvent the wheel, the show had an easy, unforced grace, and the cascading, multi-tiered dresses that capped it off (and are one of the emerging trends from New York Fashion Week) seem destined for a red-carpet turn in the very near future. Bureau Report