By Siddharth Gaur
The annual Urs fair of Khawaja Moinuddin Chisti has already started in the Ajmer district of Rajasthan. And this year too devotees are reaching in droves to this so-called mini Mecca of Indian Muslims. The whole city is abuzz with the spirit of the fair. Let`s have a feel of what makes this shrine an epitome of communal harmony. The road that leads you to the shrine suddenly transports you into a different world. The fragrance of roses and fresh air wafts in the air. Echoing qawwalis soak the atmosphere with the spirit of Sufiism. Tucked away in the foothills of the Taragarh hillock in the small town of Ajmer lies the shrine of the 12th century Sufi saint, Khawaja Moinuddin Chisti. Popularly known as, ‘Garib Nawaj’, he is seen as a messiah of the poor and downtrodden. Communal harmony naturally grew around him. All you need in his darbar (court) is to occupy a corner near the sanctum sanctorum, around his grave, where he was laid to rest some eight hundred years ago and you will hear countless stories and paeans of Khawaja’s magic, woven into melodious qawwalis. This shrine holds highest esteem in terms of reverence for the followers of Islam. It is widely believed that if one ties a red thread on the railings around sanctum sanctorum his desires shall be fulfilled. Bearing testimony to this is the faith of emperor Akbar who visited Khawaja’s Darbar bare-feet to pray for a son. He was soon blessed with one whom he named Jehangir. It is a story that lights up many hearts even today. Although round the year one can see the hustle-bustle of ziareen (devotees) but during annual Urs fair the narrow lanes, which lead to the shrine become nearly inaccessible, as thousands of devotees jostle to offer their obeisance. Ziareens mainly offer colourful `chadars` (cloth sheets) decorated with golden and silver embroidery, to the sacred grave as a mark of reverence. "These `chadars` come in various types, some are made of roses, some are made of silken shiny cloth while some have currency notes embellished on them" says Sayeed Mian, a rose vendor and manufacturer of `chadars` on order. He further adds "these `chadars` cost somewhere between fifty rupees to one lakh, depending on the purchasing capacity of the zaireen".
This is the biggest Muslim fair in the country and among the devotees who converge here, many are from Iran, Afghanistan, Bangladesh and Pakistan. During this weeklong fair, the true essence of communal harmony is brought out to its fullest, as Hindus also flock the shrine of the great Sufi saint who always preached coexistence and was the biggest votary on Hindu- Muslim unity. Interestingly, the shrine is also witnessing the rich and famous of Bollywood as they keep visiting the shrine round the year. Its massive white marble gateway has welcomed several heartthrobs of Indian cinema of all generations. Mostly, these stars come to seek Khawaja’s blessings before their new box-office release. Even politicians, bureaucrats and diplomats visiting the region keep the visit to the shrine in their itinerary. According to Moulvis, only those could reach here whom the Khawaja calls. In the words of one of the Khadim (Muslim priest), "Irade roz bante hain, Irade roz bigertae hain, yahan whohi aa pata hain jinhe Khawaja bulate hain". Other unique feature of the Urs is the conglomeration of eunuchs from all over the country who come in groups and participate in the fair. With their unique ways of offering obeisance, through band and dance, they act as crowd-pullers. They dress up colourfully and dance to the tunes of latest Bollywood chartbusters as their procession goes around the shrine.
In many ways than one, the Urs fair is an eloquent statement to all those sinister forces that threaten to destroy the secular fabric of India.