This aside, everything here revolves around the Ganga, from Ganga Tea Stalls, to Ganga pan walas, and Har Har Gange hotels. Haridwara is of special significance for it is among the first human establishments in the plains where the Ganga descends from its long and winding journey through the Himalayas. It is on the main route to the holy shrines of Badrinath and Kedarnath and is also called the gateway to Har and Hari, the presiding deities in these shrines.
Despite the hard-sell of priests poaching on the simple trust of devotee, shopkeeers attempting to sell instant Nirvana and a mob of smooth operators preying on the unwary tourist, it is still revered and thronged by millions.
Haridwar is an ancient town and is even mentioned by the Chinese scholar/traveler Huen Tsang in the 7th Century AD. There are hundreds of temples and numerous bathing ghats in Haridwar. Of these, the Har-ki-Pauri is the most important. The rivers powers to wash away sins at this spot are superlative, and are endorsed by a foot print of Vishnu on a stone nearby. Har-ki-Pauri translates to `the feet of Vishnu`.
It is characterised by round the clock religious ceremonies like upanayam or the initiation rite, mundan or the head tonsuring rite, asti visarjan or immersing the ashes of the dead and shraddha or prayers propitiating one`s ancestors. The main centre here is a small pool called the Brahma Kund that is especially popular for taking ritual baths. It is also current as a picnic spot and a general purpose bathing area. As you sit on the Ghat steps, you will notice a number youths indulge in a variety of competitions be it diving or swimming. As the twilight hour draws near, the place adorns a more religious look. Huge oil lamps are lit in preparation for the evening arati. Hundreds of burning wicks, one each for the numerous temples lining the shore, lend a mystical mood. Thousands flock to participate. Late arrivals and tourists, watch the spectacle from the bridge overhead.
Priests sing ritual prayers waving oil lamps over the Ganga, as temple bells reverberate. Devotees participate in the singing and make personal offerings by floating leaf-boat oil lamps over the river.
Despite its ancient history, Haridwar does not really have temples that are really ancient. The city saw two destructive phases in its long history, first between the 11th and 14th century when Turks, Afghans and Persians ran amuck in North-India. Later, after the fall of Mughal Empire, it was ravaged again in the anarchy that followed it.
Haridwara is especially important on Baisakhi in April and Ganga Dushehra, the day the Ganga descended on earth. It also hosts the 12 yearly Kumbha Mela that attracts millions of devotees from all over.