Exploring The Rich Heritage Of Indian Textile: A Journey Through Rajasthani Craftsmanship

Exploring The Rich Heritage Of Indian Textile: A Journey Through Rajasthani Craftsmanship/ Image source: freepik

Renowned for its rich heritage of fabrics and textiles, Rajasthan boasts a plethora of patterns, each possessing its distinct specialty. The craftsmanship behind these prints makes them a true marvel. Mehul Sethi a young fashion entrepreneur who is running a succesful well-known women's wear fashion company in Jaipur- Jisora shares the heritage of Rajasthan from local admiration to global acclaim, these creations are steadily gaining widespread popularity. 

The traditional techniques have seamlessly transformed into modern-style outfits, maintaining a delicate balance of comfort and lightness. Rajasthan's textiles are not just fabrics; they are a story woven into every thread, a legacy cherished across borders and generations.

Block Printing: Sanganeri Block Printing

Sanganeri Block Printing, is a unique form of hand block printing, has its roots in the village of Sanganer, on the outskirts of Jaipur. This beautiful technique is characterized by floral and nature-themed patterns. In its early years, the Chippa community catered to nobility and courtiers or temple devotees. The decorative motifs of Sanganeri Block Printing are known as Buta featuring larger motifs and Buti showcasing smaller ones. Additionally, the Bel and Jaal motifs set it apart from other block printing techniques.

Over the years, the localities of Jaipur have carried the essence of Sanganeri Block Printing to pan India and beyond, infusing a modern twist into these amazing patterns. These prints have traveled across the globe, blending with global fashion trends. The artisans adapt the traditional motifs to suit contemporary styles, making Sanganeri Block Printing loved by all. From traditional Indian attire to modern-day styling, these prints continue to inspire, while keeping the cultural heritage of Rajasthan alive in the hearts of people around the world.

Block Printing: Bagru printing

Bagru block printing holds its distinct identity in its deep connection with the natural environment. The weather, water, wind, and dust all play a vital role in shaping this form of work. The wooden blocks and the plants used for dyes adds to its unique appeal. Traditional Bagru prints exhibit dark or colored patterns on cream or dyed backgrounds, setting them apart from the Sanganeri prints that have a white base. In the realm of contemporary fashion, these motifs are adapted with precision, allowing brands to infuse a traditional yet contemporary essence into their latest designs. The traditional Bagru motifs boast larger sizes and bold lines, predominantly featuring geometric patterns of waves, checks, triangles, and gridded trellis, embellished with hints of floral and other natural elements. Embracing Bagru block printing in modern ensembles, celebrating the art's cultural heritage while making a style statement that resonates with the present.

Block Printing: Dabu printing

Dabu, an ancient mud resist hand block printing technique from Rajasthan, was nearly forgotten but has experienced a revival in recent years. Thanks to authentic brands and dedicated artisans, Dabu printing has become a flourishing business in Rajasthan's villages, gaining appreciation globally. The charm of Dabu printed fabrics lies in their subtle and extraordinary beauty, admired by modern-day designers and art lovers worldwide. Nature-inspired motifs like peacocks, mangoes, leaves, and geometric shapes grace these prints.

Once limited to natural dyes, Dabu prints now boast a vibrant array of colors, giving brands the freedom to create rich and colorful designs. Today, Dabu prints are no longer confined to high-end sarees; they adorn all types of garments and fabrics, blending tradition with a modern day comfort.

Dyed textiles: Bandhani

Bandhani, also known as Bandhej or Bandhni, is a tie-dye technique, celebrated for its intricate and mesmerizing designs. This age-old technique, deriving its name from the Sanskrit word "bandh," meaning "to tie," perfectly captures the essence of the process used to craft these exquisite patterns.

The art of Bandhani demands skill and precision, primarily practiced in Gujarat and Rajasthan still popular for producing the finest Bandhani work. The fabric is tied with thread at multiple points, giving rise to intricate designs like Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari, and more, each showcasing a unique creativity. Vibrant colors breathe life into Bandhani fabrics, with hues of yellow, red, blue, green, and black. The Bandhani dominance has spread far and wide, with these beautiful textiles finding their way to every corner of India. With each passing year, the demand for these stunning creations continues to surge, especially during the joyous festivities.

Brands have curated special collections that offer a fusion of tradition and modernity. From celebrations of cultural festivals to elegant attire for special occasions, Bandhani emerges as a symbol beauty. This cherished art form holds a special place in the hearts of fashion enthusiasts, adding tradition and sophistication to their wardrobes.

Dyed textiles: Lehariya

Lehariya, the traditional art from Rajasthan, is known for its bright colors and distinctive striped pattern. The word "lehariya" means "wave-like,". Crafted on lighter fabrics like cotton, silk, chiffon, or georgette, lehariya creates beautiful stripes in alternating colors after dyeing. The craftsmen tie and dip the fabric in five different colors, creating multiple hues in the desired pattern. Natural dyes like indigo for blue shades and Alizarin for red hues are used to bring the designs to life. Nowadays, lehariya is not only seen in traditional attire but also in accessories like bags, shoes, scarves, and cravats.

People love wearing lehariya for its fresh and unique style, often pairing it with Indo-western accessories to create a one-of-a-kind look. The combination of lively lehariya designs and breathable cotton fabric has made it a popular choice, seeking both style and comfort, making lehariya an absolute go-to attire for both ethnic and casual wearers.

Dyed textiles: Mothada

Mothra, another pattern in tie-dye, features a unique technique where the wave pattern is dyed twice, taking diagonally opposite sides each time. This creates a mesmerizing effect on the fabric. To achieve the authentic Mothra look, the opposite ends of the cloth's length are carefully pulled and rolled together, resulting in a captivating design.

The appeal of Mothra tie-dye is still preferred and sold to preserve the original essence of the process. It has caught the attention of fashion-forward brands, inspiring them to incorporate Mothra patterns into their designing styles.

Today, Mothra tie-dye finds its way into various collections, adding an air of uniqueness and vibrancy to garments and accessories. Whether it's on ethnic wear, casual attire, bags, or scarves, Mothra patterns present a fresh look.

Embroidered textile: Gota Patti

Gota Patti work is an ancient handcraft that once graced the royal family and court members. Today, it remains a cherished addition to festive and bridal collections. The allure lies in the jazzy gold and glitter that enlivens the clothing, making it perfect for special occasions and celebrations. With a versatile range of fabrics, Gota Patti work around pure georgette, chiffon, velvet, silk, while also embracing modern synthetic materials for production. This technique adorns dresses, dupattas, sarees, ghagras, odhnis, kurtis and even turbans. As times evolve, so does the canvas for Gota Patti. The latest Indian trends incorporate Gota Patti patterns in more subtle style with dresses, palazzos, and co-ord sets. Esteemed designers also use this embroidery as an interplay in their diverse creations. In Rajasthan, Gota Patti is favored for auspicious occasions, cherished by women from all households. The craft has adapted with multi-colored polyester ribbon replacing pure gold and silver wires for cost-effectiveness, moisture resistance, and tarnish-free qualities.

Embroidered textile: Heer Bharat

Heer Bharat, also known as Banni embroidery in Gujarat, is renowned for its mirror work and fine bead detailing, with red, yellow, and pink as its predominant colors. In the state of Rajasthan, amidst the many forms of embroidery, Heer Bharat holds an important place. The embroidery takes its name from the locally called "Heer," which refers to the silk floss used in the artwork. The filling is done using buttonhole stitch or long and short (double satin) stitch, creating attractive patterns.

Heer Bharat embroidery has spread its charm far and wide across the country, inspiring brands to infuse their innovative thoughts into stitching techniques and design patterns, resulting in more vivid and eye-catching creations. While this artwork was once confined to specific garments, with the passage of time, it has expanded its presence to bridal and groom wears, sherwanis, festive outfits, and even decorative household items. The Heer Bharat technique continues to captivate the hearts of people, adding a touch of elegance to their traditions and surroundings.

Embroidered textile: Danka embroidery

Danka embroidery, practiced by the Bohra Community of Udaipur, is a unique and captivating art form. Each 'danka' is a small, square plate, no larger than 1.5 cm, and was historically crafted in pure gold during the reign of kings and queens. The process of creating Danka embroidery involves washing and polishing each plate with fine sand before carefully hammering it into shape. The cost of this exquisite work is determined by the weight of the 'dankas'.

This decorative technique finds its place on fabrics like satin, chiffon, or silk, which are tightly stretched on a wooden frame before embroidery commences. The skilled craftsman sits on the floor, carefully placing the Danka pieces on the fabric as per the design. The Danka embroidery not only reflects the community's rich heritage but also has a splendor into the fabric.

Woven textiles: Kota Doria

Doria, which means 'thread', refers to a fabric woven from cotton and silk yarns. While it can be made solely from cotton, Kota Doria cotton silk is highly popular. Typically, each square of the checkered fabric consists of 14 yarns - 8 cotton and 6 silk, providing both durability and a subtle sheen. This fine weave makes Kota Doria fabrics lightweight and versatile.

Traditionally, throw-shuttle pit looms were used to create Kota Doria fabrics. However, with advancements, frame looms and jacquard looms have become more prevalent. The 'Ansari' community of the Hadauti region, along with other villages in southern Rajasthan like Bundi and Baran districts, are known for their expertise in this craft. Kota Doria weaving is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process, truly representing an art form.

Kota Doria boasts three different styles - Basic, block printing, and with zari border. Its distinctive checked pattern, known as 'khat', sets Kota Doria apart. They are widely used in sarees, salwar kameez, lehengas, and home furnishings.

Mehul concludes by saying, "As we immerse ourselves in the rich heritage of Indian textiles from Rajasthan, we are reminded of its mesmerizing beauty that resonates with people across the globe. From traditional to modern designs, these exquisite fabrics epitomize impeccable craftsmanship, merging comfort and elegance. Rajasthan-based brands play a pivotal role in upholding and showcasing these authentic textiles, preserving their art and legacy. As we celebrate the beauty of Rajasthan's textiles, their essence continues to leave an indelible mark on the world." - Mehul Sethi